Rock star moments are few and far between and nothing says rock star like being escorted by multiple truck loads of military personnel when driving from one place to another, or by men in jeans and t-shirts carrying machine guns when walking between buildings.
In Egypt there are hundreds of Ancient Egyptian sites, only a very few of these are visited by most tourists. Those tourists taking day trips from the resorts will be lucky to visit 3 or 4 sites swarming with the dregs of tourist society looking for a sanitized Egyptian experience. The better parts of ancient Egypt can be seen though by taking slow trains and boats along the Nile, stopping in whatever town is nearest the sites.
|Our guard between the sites.|
On occasion though you can come to a site where very few people manage to stop, but it's still open to the public. In these places the police will escort you to the site, then if you need to walk to another site they will continue to escort you, machine gun at the ready. It's been 5 years since I was in Egypt, and I was there during a time of relative stability before the Arab Spring and the fall of Mubarek. I can only imagine that the security is even more tight now, too much of the Egyptian economy is reliant on the tourist dollar.
Unfortunately they are very uptight about being photographed and we weren't allowed to take pictures of the security...most of the time. I would have loved to have been able to have a video of us haggling over the price of a taxi while the police were impatiently waiting in 2 trucks to escort the taxi to the ruins.
So if you go o Egypt, skip the resorts and take the train down the Nile. The experience of being able to walk around the site, not having to wait to inspect the hieroglyphs and having quiet will be one of the greatest experiences in Egypt.
At some point I might even post pictures from more of the trip.